6 BTM BTC

[MouhadIb]

Okay,

I put the timing back to stock and the btc knob is set right under the #1 point. I am getting detonation on number 1 cylinder. I can see the lights on the J&S flash in the number one cylinder a lot in 1st gear. Also I have heard it when going up on an overpass. Can anyone tell me where I should have the knob set to? I have a JRSC w/8# pulley.

Thanks!

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!





[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited September 19, 2000).]

[hooper]

I'm glad you got it going Jay. When I first installed my BTM, it took quite a while for me to get it where I liked it. I was constantly changing the advance on the distributor, and tweaking the MSD knob. I'm sure some of the other GSR guys have got some suggestions to start with. Make notes as to what settings you try, and some sort of note as to how it performs. A couple of flashes on the J&S is OK, as long as they either stop by themselves relatively quick, or you let off. But ideally, you wouldn't want to see any lights. Remember, you'll also be changing the settings when the climate changes! On my civic, at 8-9psi, I was running stock timing (16*) with the BTM knob set to 0. But I had LOTS of fuel enrichment. I'm sure it'll be different when it goes back to the 14-15 psi levels.
Good luck!

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Phil
93 Civic Coupe, ENDYN built D16Y7, ENDYN modded JRSC, ENDYN/Thompson intake tube w/ cold air "bath tub", Kamikazi, GReddy 2.25, J&S, MSD 6BTM, RC 310s, Field SFC, Clutchmasters stage 3 & aluminum flywheel, Quaife, Moroso catch oil separator (catch can), various suspension & brake mods

[MouhadIb]

Thanks Phil! I'll start working on that this weekend!

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!



[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited September 19, 2000).]

[hooper]

Hey, I forgot to ask you about the fuel leak you had. I assume you got it fixed? It was just the injector O-ring right? Any more trouble?

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Phil
93 Civic Coupe, ENDYN built D16Y7, ENDYN modded JRSC, ENDYN/Thompson intake tube w/ cold air "bath tub", Kamikazi, GReddy 2.25, J&S, MSD 6BTM, RC 310s, Field SFC, Clutchmasters stage 3 & aluminum flywheel, Quaife, Moroso catch oil separator (catch can), various suspension & brake mods

[MouhadIb]

Yeah I got that problem fixed when I saw that I was leaking fuel all over the place. It got so bad that I was told that I might have caught on fire while driving. Yeah I got new O'rings!

Right now the only problem I have is that IAC valve and where to put the BTC knob and what setting I should have it on??

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!



[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited September 20, 2000).]

[G3-TEG]

Jay: whats up man..

First things first.. the knock display on the J&S doesn't tell you WHAT cylinder is pinging, only how much timing is being pulled from "A" cylinder.. if you see two lights on simulateously, then that means TWO cylinders are pinging, but yu don't know which two.. understand?


As for where to set the MSD, i have no idea for JRSC.. but from what i know, with #8 you need to be at 8-10deg timing at full boost.. so i'm sure you can calculate that on your own.. i'd set your base timing to 16deg and go from there..

let me know!


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Fully built - TO4e powered

[hooper]

Actually, I believe the J&S does show you which cylinder is pinging. The first group of (3)lights is #1 cyl. The next group is #2, and so forth. The first light in each group would indicate about 3* of retard, and another ~3 for each other light, up to 10* per cylinder. There is also a setting on the J&S to change to ALL cylinder retard. And there is even be a switch to change to a total of 20* of retard. In a typical set up, if you saw the 8th led light up, for example, that would mean that pinging was detected in cylinder #3, and about 6 degrees of timing was/is being taken out. I've heard some guys talk about having way too much timing pulled out when the J&S heard pinging. It probably was because the switch was set to the 20* setting. That's about 6* per LED.
Sorry to ramble , but that's just what I know.

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Phil
93 Civic Coupe, ENDYN built D16Y7, ENDYN modded JRSC, ENDYN/Thompson intake tube w/ cold air "bath tub", Kamikazi, GReddy 2.25, J&S, MSD 6BTM, RC 310s, Field SFC, Clutchmasters stage 3 & aluminum flywheel, Quaife, Moroso catch oil separator (catch can), various suspension & brake mods

[sjoback]

thats not how I remebered it being explained before, I'm pretty sure its just how much timing is taking out, not which cylinder.

[MouhadIb]

Well just to let y'all know that four of my red led's are going off. Starting from the left red led light. Then after I am out of 1st gear the lights diminish more and more but first gear is when 4 of the led's light up and flicker until I get out of first!

I will set the timing on the distributor to midway point and then tune the BTM. I think that after I get my CEL off from that stupid IAC valve then I should be okay. Is the car still running on safe mode even if it's the IAC valve that is throwing the CEL??

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!



[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited September 21, 2000).]

[Batoutahell]

This, from the J&S instructions: "Each LED is worth 2 degrees of retard. If the SafeGuard is set for "retard all", and it is taking out say, 12 degrees of timing, then you would see the 6th LED on. If the SafeGuard is set for "retard separate", then the display becomes more complex. Since the SafeGuard can retard each cylinder by a separate amount, you will see one LED on for each cylinder that is being retarded, and the position of that LED indicates how far. For example, let's say that one cylinder is retarded 4 degrees, another 6 degrees, and another 8 degrees, then you would see the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th LED's on."